We all know the natural style has grown in popularity over the last few years, from fluffy classics, the wet look, half-eye and more. When I have personally had lash extensions, I've always gone for super fluffy and natural sets, and although I love creating mega volume sets, I've learned a few things about natural sets that have really helped execute the style I've been going for.
Each of these tips may not be applicable for all "natural looking" lash sets, but I've learned to play around with what I've learned by trying out new things I wouldn't tend to do.
Okay up first, whenever I do a wet look or a super super natural set, I very rarely add fans into that set. I did a set around a year ago where I wanted a fluffy classic kinda style, but I just kept thinking "they're not full enough" even though that wasn't the look I was going for. So I added a few fans and instantly it hid all of the spikes and removed the texture from the set, making it look like an average volume/hybrid set. So I learned from this, whenever I'm doing a natural set and I feel they're "not full enough" I keep adding more spikes and closed fans, instead of open wide fans.
However, if you're doing this kind of style on a client and they have gaps in their natural lashes, I would recommend adding one or two very light fans in those sparse areas to achieve an even set with no gaps. And vice versa, if they have an area with lots of natural lashes, I will not add any fans in that area to avoid one part being more full than the rest.
Second tip: if you're going for a wispy volume set, or a wispy natural set, make sure your spikes are long enough. When I first started doing these styles, I remember placing a 16mm spike next to a 12/13mm fan and it feeling so wrong, like it was going to be way too long and stand out too much. So one time I removed the 16 and replaced it with a 14, and when the client opened their eyes I couldn't even see the spikes. So I started practicing on my mannequin, using appropriate lengths for the spikes so that I could actually see the spikes. I found that doing 3-4mm more for the spikes next to the fan worked perfect for wispy sets. So for example, fans in the middle section of the eye are 11/12mm, I would do 14/15mm and sometimes 16. It can feel strange to add these longer lengths amongst more "normal" length fans, but you do start to see the difference when doing so.
Third tip: learn the different outcomes of using softer spikes and more dramatic spikes. When I first started, I used to take a microbrush and apply a sealant or bonder and then swipe it up the spike after it had been applied, to instantly close up the spike to make it more dramatic. Now, I instead make sure before I pick the spike up from the lash strip, that it is fully intact. If it isn't fully intact, I try again. Soon you will get into the rhythm of being able to distinguish the two different spikes and how to achieve them. For softer spikes, I grab them from the strip and give them a tiny wiggle with my tweezers which fans them out a tiny bit, and then fully pull from the strip and apply.
💕Lash Queen💕
Final tip: keep practicing! You will adapt your own ways of doing these natural styles and develop your own tips and tricks along the way, but that comes with practice, practice and more practice!